Finally done! At last report I had the trousers finished, but I still hadn't even cut the jacket. Well, here it is. I couldn't wait till tomorrow, so I took pictures with room lights - not the best, however...
The jacket is a silk tweed (did I mention that previously?) It has two shades of olivey green, some nutmeg, some goldy colour and a little black. It ends up reading as a brownish colour, rather than a green. What a messy fabric! The whole sewing room is covered in threads, fluff and dust. The weave is very loose, so I ended up interfacing every single piece, although according to the pattern, the sleeves did not need to be interfaced. Very simple, actually. Just a lot of pieces, and you do have to watch the pleating on the top of the sleeve. My basting kept falling open from handling and I redid those pleats a number of times. Oh - the only somewhat difficult bit was the little curve at the top.
It required quite a lot of rather deep clipping to get around the curve. Not so bad when it was tweed to tweed. A bit more finicky when it was tweed to lining.
Just thought I'd show you how I do hems on jackets.
In this case, with the fused interfacing completely covering the back of each piece, I opted not to add anymore interfacing to the hems. I fold down the edge of the hem and catchstitch at this point. (This picture came out most true to the actual colour of the fabric.)
I then pop the hem in place and catchstitch again at the edge, usually at the seams only. These sleeves have only one seam, and there are pleats with a facing at the hem - I only tacked at the seam and for a bit at the top of the seam.
I did actually peak at the instructions, and I believe they said to attach the front bands from the inside. I decided to pick stitch "in the ditch" from the top. The stitching got lost in the nubbly fabric and was totally invisible. This way I could line things up better.
I did understitch the sleeve hem facings and the neck facing.
On to the trousers (pants?) - whatever.
They're rather wide. I did add a mock fly front zipper. Don't know why, but that seems to be what everyone is wearing, and I suppose I'm just used to that at this point. They're a wool flannel (not of particularly spectacular quality, but...) of a dark caramel colour. I lined them, as I do all wool pants. Don't want to get the itchies part-way through the day!
Now - what to wear this with... The neckline does not work with any shirt-type collars, so that's out. I do have a goldy-coloured high-necked t-shirt (it's my version from a Vogue pattern - I'm not going to look up the number at the moment). Somehow this looks rather washed out to me.
I think that black would be better. Wouldn't you know it - I have a rather large amount of a thin black knit! Tops! I might make the t-shirt that is included in the pattern and then invent something else. I have ideas. The jacket also works with a number of skirts in my closet - black, camel, dark beige - I just need some tops. I am trying to do "whole outfits" - accessories included - at this point, so I have to take this to the finish, or I'll be back to "nothing to wear this with".
Now - on to the trials and tribulations of fit. I was almost on the verge of just using my usual trouser pattern, but decided that I needed the challenge of working with a new pattern. I laid the two pants patterns together to get an idea of what alterations I would have to make. Surprise! My usual pattern is an 8. The 6 on this one was bigger than my old 8. I don't understand. I cut the 6 and needed to make very few adjustments - just took in the sides a titch and scooped out on the back seam. I have not shrunk. Vogue patterns were always exact in their sizing. Or maybe I've been dreaming all these decades. What was then very interesting, was the jacket sizing. I measured, I read the measurements on the pattern. I decided that the 6 would do as well for the top. After all, I'm smaller on top than on the bottom, right? I did straighten the curve on the side front at the bust to flatten the front (I knocked off about 3/8"). That worked well. No excess floppies under the arms. That's good too, especially since it didn't require me doing anything to the pattern. The hip - was small. I know, I should have measured there, and not just assumed that since the pants fit, that the jacket would fit. I ended up taking out 1/8" on every seam (and there were 7 of them!) tapering out from the waist. Just where the pants fit exactly right, the jacket was too small. Does this make sense? Not like I was using two different patterns!
Knit tops should be much faster work.