Thursday, May 17, 2012

A Tale of two shirts

No, I had no intention of copying Gail, but I also decided to sew shirts.  It was still too cold to really get into "summer sewing", but the long sleeves make these imminently more wearable at this time of year.
I decided to compare shirt patterns, to see what I liked best - to know for next time.  The patterns ...
 Vogue 2634 and McCalls 5433.  In some ways similar, in some ways not.  The McCalls is more fitted, due to the vertical darts, so I suppose if I wanted to make it a blousier fit, I could just omit those.
The white print is the McCalls.  The gold is Vogue.  Both fabrics are voile, though the gold is much crisper than the white.
McCalls has a sewn-on front band.  The Vogue is simply turned under twice at the front edge.  Much faster to turn under a straight edge and press it down than sewing and topstitching a separate band.  So - if speed is crucial - Vogue wins.
Collar stands ...
I quite definitely prefer the McCalls - it's wider, easier to place and sew the buttonhole.
Cuffs ...
I prefer the McCalls, which ends flush with the edge of the opening.  That cuff extension always bothered me - looks a little too homemade?  There is not too much of a difference in the width of the cuff, but the two buttons do make the cuff sit more neatly on the wrist.
The McCalls sleeve is a two-piece.  Don't quite understand why.  Not like it's really fitted, as a jacket.  Though, I suppose, if one has arm-fitting-issues this would make the process easier?  Both patterns have the seam at the back of the sleeve.  Why?  No placket.  Just turn under the seam allowance and stitch.  And what is one to do with the raw edges that happen at the top of that opening?  I cam up with a less-than-perfect solution ...
a long bar tack across all the raw edges.  I do think that this needs rethinking.  Perhaps next time (and there will, I'm sure, be plenty more next times) the sleeve could be redrawn to place the seam at the underarm.  A placket sewn on to avoid those nasty raw edges.
I attempted pictures of me wearing the blouses ... outside.  It seems that I am finally getting the hang of camera settings indoors, but not for outdoors.  Very, very bad photos.  I'll try again when I make pieces that go with the


  1. Both shirts look great Irene. I have the McCall's pattern and have been wanting to make it in a light denim. You've inspired me to dig it out and consider it. I'd like to add a sleeve placket just because...I'm trying to challenge myself in some way with everything I make lately.

  2. I think they both look great. I've been using the McCalls pattern and while I do recommend it, I find the collar too wide and I prefer a narrow, single button cuff.

  3. The shirts ae wonderful. I can't decide which I like better. I especially like the cuff on the gold blouse.

  4. Interesting comparison. Both shirts are attractive, but I think I like the McCall's shirt the best.

  5. Interesting comparison, and an eye opening lesson for me. I am working to improve my attention to detail and this has helped. In a rush to finish some project...I will get sloppy. All the work you show here, even your bar tack, is neat and tidy. Thank you! :-)

  6. Both the blouses look lovely and you have done beautiful work in the making.

  7. Lovely blouses and great comparison review.

  8. They are both beautiful, thank you for pointing out the different details.

  9. Yes, both are beautiful. Love the crisp, clean finishings.

  10. Thank you so much for the report. I am always interested in the best basics patterns out there. Both of your shirts look so nicely finished. Nice job!